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Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Saint George
> Snow Canyon SP
> Island In The Sky
> Sand Dunes
What's New Pussycat?
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 61
votes
Routes in Sand Dunes
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A Little Nightmare Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Battle of Wills T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fragments from Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heroes Get Remembered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Prestidigitator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandy Jean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twist and Shout S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | C. Farr and D. Biniaz |
| Page Views: | 4,375 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
A two-pitch sport climb on crispy varnish features, with a slabby move thrown in here and there.
P1 Climb up to a bulging flake and clip the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the most difficult move of the pitch, but a little thought and balance will see it through. After the second bolt trend right using varnish knobs and features to the anchor.
P2 Climb up and left following the bolts to the top anchor.
Location
Get to this via the "second tier" ledge in the Sand Dunes area of the Island in the Sky formation.
At the top of the 3rd-class gully that leads to the second tier, head south (right). Pass two bulging buttresses on your left. What's New Pussycat is on the third buttress, just past a gully. There is a drilled pin route (Stranger than Friction) across the gully to the left of this bolted line.
Looking up the midpoint rappel anchor is obvious with its slings.
At the top of the 3rd-class gully that leads to the second tier, head south (right). Pass two bulging buttresses on your left. What's New Pussycat is on the third buttress, just past a gully. There is a drilled pin route (Stranger than Friction) across the gully to the left of this bolted line.
Looking up the midpoint rappel anchor is obvious with its slings.
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