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Papa Bear

5.10b, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 67 votes
FA: ??
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 06. Three Bears
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is pretty straightforward until you get to the roof. Then it's a hand jam and a long reach to a jug in the middle of two cracks. Some fancy footwork (a toe jam and a heel hook) will get you to the top. The guidebook rates this as a 5.9, which is way off. Count on something harder.

Location

This route begins on the left-most of the three cracks that are Papa, Mama, and Baby (left to right, respectively).

Protection

top rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Teddy reaching.
[Hide Photo] Teddy reaching.
The roof
[Hide Photo] The roof
Crux Move on Papa Bear
[Hide Photo] Crux Move on Papa Bear
Roof of Papa Bear, and no, that's not a snake...
[Hide Photo] Roof of Papa Bear, and no, that's not a snake...
Tackling the roof.
[Hide Photo] Tackling the roof.
Tackling the roof.
[Hide Photo] Tackling the roof.
The roof
[Hide Photo] The roof
Pulling hard.
[Hide Photo] Pulling hard.
The obvious roof with a splitter through it.
[Hide Photo] The obvious roof with a splitter through it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Sorenson
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it. Oct 18, 2008
Rob Lilley
Greensboro, NC
[Hide Comment] Is this leadable on trad gear? It's listed as a TR but it looks feasible, if a little spicy lower down? Aug 15, 2012
[Hide Comment] The chalk-marked hold on the left edge of the roof is LOOSE! It may still hold for a while, especially if you grab nearer the wall (imagine the bottom scoop of a J being the more stable bit), but someone is going to crank on the far edge, and be in for a dangerous surprise. This is a larger rock, so I'm urging CAUTION on this route. Skip that hold or give it up. May 15, 2014
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is very leadable, there is pretty solid gear. It is not straightforward down low- look back into some of the crevices you use for hands. The roof takes camalot #5, #2, or #.5. A #4 might work but I didn't try it. Mar 13, 2017
Cory Hanes
Asheville, NC
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Partner and I led this on gear 12/12/19. Goes well. Gear on the face is shoddy at best but can get big stuff in the rood to protect yourself. Pretty fun is you're bored. Dec 16, 2019