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Pee Break

5.6, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 85 votes
FA: ??
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 07. Little Amphitheater
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

The route starts with some big ledges and thins to some smaller ledges before a small roof. Pull the roof (5.8 ish) or go right to a large chimney (stays on grade at ~5.6). Go up the chimney or up the face...the face is a tad harder than the chimney.

Location

The route is on the right end of the Little Amphitheater. Look for a left-facing dihedral to start. 

Protection

top-rope -- can also be led on gear,  ending at the bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wife leading Pee Break
[Hide Photo] Wife leading Pee Break
Shaun Willoughby Just under the mini roof
[Hide Photo] Shaun Willoughby Just under the mini roof
Wife leading Pee Break
[Hide Photo] Wife leading Pee Break
Do NOT bail right at the top. Stay in the chimney for safe 5.6 climbing.
[Hide Photo] Do NOT bail right at the top. Stay in the chimney for safe 5.6 climbing.
Gear placements after leading
[Hide Photo] Gear placements after leading
Setting up top rope
[Hide Photo] Setting up top rope
Fun lead on PeeBreak
[Hide Photo] Fun lead on PeeBreak
Fun lead on PeeBreak.  There's a few places for placements here, but you do have to think about the rock quality.
[Hide Photo] Fun lead on PeeBreak. There's a few places for placements here, but you do have to think about the rock quality.
Pee break overview shot
[Hide Photo] Pee break overview shot
Wife finishing the chimney on lead of Pee Break
[Hide Photo] Wife finishing the chimney on lead of Pee Break
Wife leading Pee Break
[Hide Photo] Wife leading Pee Break

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Petty
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This route is well protected using a standard NC rack. Apr 30, 2010
George Heib
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Have led this on a small rack going right through the chimney. Pretty fun and there is a nice ring to girth hitch before the transition to the chimney. I would highly recommend climbing to the left of the chimney though. It is 5.8ish, but there are some really fun holds and a cool sequence up there ending on a shallow pocket. Sep 30, 2010
Joshua McDaniel
Johnson City, TN
[Hide Comment] I would not recommend climbing to the left of the chimney at the top if you are leading this route, unless you are very comfortable on 5.7-5.8 terrain. Dec 4, 2011
rozaosa
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Eats gear, fun lead. I'd recommend belaying your second from top to reduce rope drag unless you have plenty of webbing Jun 5, 2017
Joshua McDaniel
Fayetteville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I think this is the best 5.6 and overall best "easy" route at Pilot. The climb has a few things going for it that make it high on my list when introducing someone to climbing. For one, it's a pretty aesthetic route. It starts a few feet above the hiking trail and the hillside drops quickly below the trail. So the climb (though relatively short) feels a bit more exposed, and the position accentuates the views from the route. There is some typical brittle Pilot rock in spots but nothing too terrible. The lower crack and face, climb up to an interesting little roof then up into some stemming in a wide chimney crack, or for more difficulty one can climb directly up the face. The climb can be top roped or lead on gear. One can belay at the bottom, or (and this makes for a nice end of the day climb) take in the view while sitting and belaying from the top. Feb 20, 2020
Blake Foster
Raleigh, NC
[Hide Comment] On the ledge you can stand on at the beginning with some cracks above it, there is a small black rat snake that lives on the second horizontal crack and if you put your fingers in that crack it will bite them. Speaking from experience. Mar 31, 2024