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Cow Patty Bingo

5.9, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 53 votes
FA: John Black
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 08. Amphitheater
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the farthest right "slab" route in the ampitheatre. Climb the dark rock past 3 fairly well spaced bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. This is a good route, and is pretty safe if supplement the bolts with gear.

Location

The farthest right slab route.

Protection

3 Bolts and gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Early 2000s
[Hide Photo] Early 2000s
Alex Carry at the top of Cow Patty Bingo.
[Hide Photo] Alex Carry at the top of Cow Patty Bingo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Really? A trad route? This is NC sport climbing! With runouts sketchy clips this ain't no Muir Valley (New school bolting at a privately owned, but great group of cliffs at the Red River Gorge).

I put this route off for a long time because of the runouts, but finally got on it and didn't think it was bad at all. Mar 25, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Winter Park CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route Aug 29th, set Orange #2 Metolius before 1st bolt.But no other gear to be found? The route is slightly heady, but not technically challenging. The clips are on good feet, the moves are extremely good.

No doubt a great route! Aug 30, 2010
George Heib
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Interesting NC sport route with the typical high first bolt and a runout near the top. It is a solid route with a little wandering, but worth the head game. I agree with the other post, you don't need gear on this one, but the falls are a little less than safe. It shouldn't be your first 5.9 lead go hit up Black Rain for that one. Sep 30, 2010
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
[Hide Comment] This route does wander, as commented, to be 5.9 instead of 5.10 as is 'Pump Street' on the left side of that part of Middle Amphitheater. The rings make the perfect hang for that other route, which gets compliments for TR after someone has led 'Patty'. The Kelley guide had 'Patty' as 5.9R for being run-out, and for that it is indeed a poor choice for first 5.9 lead. A well-schooled Trad climber will put in at least two more pieces after the first low horizontal, so that this could be a Trad lead too. IF it will ever get dry!

. May 3, 2011
Sarah Wolfe
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] This is a 5.9R sport route, could be called mixed as there are a couple of gear placements in the runout parts. Not trad since there are at least 3 bolts on the line. Mar 4, 2012
nbrown
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I think a lot of folks posting comments here don't really understand the difference between "sport" and "trad". Technically this one is mixed, but that isn't an option on this site.

The route went in ground up, using supplemental gear, both of which make it "trad", if you will.

For example: just 'cause the routes at nearby stone are bolted too, that certainly doesn't make them sport routes.. Feb 20, 2013
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
[Hide Comment] Nathan, I think a lot of folks posting comments don't know what "ground up" means. Hell, I bet if you asked everyone at Pilot on any given Saturday, less than 10% would know what ground up meant. Mar 25, 2013