PRINT: Rock Climb Wrist, The Gunks

Wrist

5.6, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.8 from 224 votes
FA: Bonnie Prudden and Hans Kraus, 1953
New York > Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…

Description

P1: Climb up the crack, then head up and right across easier ground to the base of the left-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Mosey (hah!) up this to a belay ledge. (5.5, 100ft.)

P2: Climb the right-facing corner to a roof, then make a heart-pounding traverse out left onto the face above. Continue up to the top. (5.6, 100ft.)

Two suggestions for leaders with inexperienced followers: It is better to belay P1 from a tree immediately after the crux, then move the belay station to the GT ledge (only 10 feet of class 3 scramble), which will put you directly under the crux roof of P2.

Also, because Wrist is just above the hairpin turn, it can be very hard to hear your second below the roof on P2. If there's any chance the second will blow the traverse, belay from the horizontal cracks above the roof.

Rappel by the bolted rappel route to the north: From the top, walk about 40' right and down a trail back towards the edge. The first set of bolts is down from the edge a bit - look carefully. A set of single 60m raps will get you down.

Location

Look for an obvious crack, 35 feet left of Arch.

Protection

Standard rack, with something big (4") for the offwidth/flake on P1.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Deagle - Wrist 5.6

Andrew Kontala rappeling off the top of Wrist.

Mike Amato leading the last pitch of Wrist, a typical Gunks 5.6 roof.

Wrist. <br>
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Bring a large piece to protect the layback crux (large crack seen beneath the leader).

Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layback crux (large crack seen beneath the leader).

The P2 crux - I had to clip both ropes to protect my 2 seconds. Just stick #1 Camalot as far as you can in the horizontal and start the traverse.

Kristin Knudson finishes up Wrist.

Krista about to start the crux of P1 of Wrist

Leading P1 of Wrist

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

percious
Bear Creek, CO

5.6

This is a great route for a hot day, as both belays are shaded.

A #4 camalot protects the 5.5 crux on the first pitch. The crack is somewhat off-width if you stick to it. It is possible to climb to the right of the crack though. Feb 6, 2008

Dana Bol
Cold Spring

Just did this route and thought it was great. Both P1 and P2 cruxes were thoughtful and challenging. P2's airy traverse is fun - I am tall, so I got the foot hold without an intermediate step at the beginning...lucky me. May 17, 2010

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY

Ok, What did I miss on the P2 traverse? Feet perhaps? I lead this today and felt that it was harder than a 5.6. I wasted a ton of energy go up and down on the "high road" vs. the "low road". I think I needed to heel hook the big horn and just move across on the low road. Anyways, I made it and was laughing when I finished. I am sure I looked very funny as my feet were scrambling for purchase. The pro is great on the traverse and you are dangling in mid air, so a fall would have really no consequences.

So is there secret beta that I need to know for next time? Aug 21, 2010

Barrett Stetson

P1: A #4 Camalot might have been helpful, only had a #3 that fit about halfway up the offwidth but it's a large deep crack that opens above that and was a little concerned about it walking up and out. Had a similar sized hex (maybe slightly larger) that there was a decent spot for a bit higher and made me happy I had brought them up. There is some smaller gear out on the arete (on the outside of the offwidth) until you get about midpoint.

P2: The roof move is super protectable. There was a lovely fixed cam that I went ahead and backed up anyways. I'm short, so I had to hand traverse a few moves (feet are not supporting any real weight) until I could throw my foot on on the protruding corner and twist myself up to grab the protruding horn above that and pull myself over. Oct 31, 2010

SethG

The pitch two crux is fun and exciting. I just did pitch one for the first time the other day and ever since I've been trying to come up with another example of a 5.5 pitch that is so committing. I can't think of one. The layback off the edge of the off-width is one heck of a move. I put a number 3 C4 as high as I could but I would have been happier with a bigger cam. May 2, 2011

Alex Kowalcyk
Idaho

Why do Arch to P2 of Wrist when you can do both pitches of Wrist? Great climbing to be had on both pitches! You guys are all crazy for laybacking that 4" crack. When I see a sweet cozy crack, I jam it when on lead. Great feet in the crack, and jugs up above, as well as finger-sized gear. I climbed this this afternoon and was in the shade the whole way. P1 has a rappel sling tree anchor. No rap anchor on top P2. Had to walk off. Jul 5, 2012

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO

The rapp chains are easy to miss. Walk about 40 ft right and DOWN a trail back towards the edge. A single 60m gets you down in two rapps. Double 60s get you down in one. Be careful with your rope, the rapp runs straight down Ribs which is often occupied by newbies. May 27, 2014

Ron Birk
Boston, MA

If you are taller (5'8"+?) the traverse on p2 is rather straight forward as you can reach great foot holds. Jul 28, 2016

Zoe Juneau

Following P1, I did not find the "layback" crux to be a layback. I used a sidepull out right in addition to the wide crack, moved my feet, and then I was on jugs above. I imagine this is less strenuous, not sure. Great route! Bring a #4 for the P1 crux. Sep 2, 2017

Andrew Hess
Brooklyn, NY

I only had a #5 so used it on the crack. It worked. Mar 31, 2019

The Weavers
High Falls NY

The last pitch is terrific. The traverse under the roof reminds me of horseman, but at the top of the cliff. Aug 22, 2021

Nick Haha
Choosing the path less trav…

We got on this route because it was open and didn’t know anything about it. I was quite surprised on how good both pitches are. Both pitches are tough and a #3 and #4 is recommended to bring. Nov 8, 2021

Chad Silva
Napanoch, NY

Great climbing. On P2, the ancient ring pitons are worthless, and the third one is an absolute trap. Don't think that the climbing is over after the traverse! Jun 27, 2023

rogerbenton

An old black 3.5 camalot is really nice to have on the P1 OW. Oct 7, 2023

Danny Neri
Lynbrook, NY

I never clip the pins under the roof! Extend long leading up to it, then a double length on the #1 or #2 under the roof for the traverse puts the clipping carabiner right at your waist for the crux moves. Can get a .75 in addition as you move out left but strenuous to place. Save a #3 C4 for the exit flake (go straight up! don't exit right for the easy way out!) Mar 25, 2024

Trebor Ebaccm
NY

GT ledge at end of P1 is overall decent but beware of loose rocks and some chossy spots. There were a few dinner plate size loose pieces scattered around, plus many smaller rocks. Also had a baseball sized piece of rock break under my foot and go cascading toward the belay area. Fortunately no one was down there to heed my "rock!" scream, but the rock landed amongst our packs on the ground. Mar 30, 2024

Scott Doering
The Gunks

5.6

Fun moves and great pro on this route. The initial crack with the little roof protects with a nut or a .3 or .4 camalot. #4 for the crux. Jun 19, 2024