All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Crawford Notc… > 6. Mt Willard… > 04. E Face - Lower

Left Hand Monkey Wrench

Name: Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Rating: 2.4

WI3

Routes in 04. East Face - Lower

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	Hitchcock Gully (Lower) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3 Mod. Snow
	Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3
	Right Hand Squirrel Nuts (aka LHMW Bypass) WI2+
	Willard Slab Right WI3
	Unknown WI2

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Type:	Ice
FA:	Randy Noble, John Bussulak, 1997
Page Views:	10,558 total · 50/month
Shared By:	BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Details

The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.

The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.

Description

A great pitch to avoid the mixed climbing on Lower Hitchcock, or to bypass a slower party. Not a bad climb in itself either.

Location

From the base of Hitchock gully hike north (right) along the cliff band for approximately 5 minutes. The Flow will come down from a right facing corner, making it hard to see on the approach.

[Note: In 2015 the 'path' started about 300-400 ft up Hitchcock opposite a 20-25ft high boulder/cliff on the left. (This is the first significant rock encountered.) A rising traverse to the right through trees, then on snow-covered slab (50-100ft below a rock-cliff-wall) then further up and right led to the base. I'd say "5 minutes" is rather optimistic !

To use this as a descent: from the base of Upper Hitchcock, move downhill-left (climber's right) through open slabs and and then more-or-less straight down through some trees. Best to follow a path (as we did) if you haven't done it before. Rap anchors are now (Dec 2021) on a on a pine tree about 15 ft back ( the old birch tree is dead!) Presently, rap with dbl ropes ( if a single 70m makes it please report! NOTE- see comment, at least one party says “yes- with very little left over) ) down the climber's-left side to a huge double-trunked tree. watch for potential lose rock. See COMMENT R. Hall]