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New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> - Crawford Notc…
> 6. Mt Willard…
> 04. E Face - Lower
Hitchcock Gully (Lower)
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British WI3- M3 Mod. Snow
Avg: 2.6 from 126
votes
Routes in 04. East Face - Lower
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Hitchcock Gully (Lower) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3 Mod. Snow |
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Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3 |
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Right Hand Squirrel Nuts (aka LHMW Bypass) WI2+ |
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Willard Slab Right WI3 |
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Unknown WI2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 13,947 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
The climb is broken into the lower and upper Hitchock gullies with a pitch of easy hiking between the two. The lower pitch is often used to provide access to the many options of the east face slabs. The lower pitch is somewhat thin, moderate ice and snow to a 5.5 rock finish. Protect the top with slings on good trees. I would only give the first pitch one star if it were by itself, unless you are interested in moderate mixed climbing.
Be aware, especially later in the day, that P1 is the standard descent (rap) for climbers who have done Cinema and/or many of the climbs on the upper slabs.
The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a deep cleft. It feels like a miniature version of the Pinnacle gully in Huntington Ravine and though it is a full pitch feels way too short. This is a four star pitch for a moderate ice climber.
Be aware, especially later in the day, that P1 is the standard descent (rap) for climbers who have done Cinema and/or many of the climbs on the upper slabs.
The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a deep cleft. It feels like a miniature version of the Pinnacle gully in Huntington Ravine and though it is a full pitch feels way too short. This is a four star pitch for a moderate ice climber.
Location
Hike south on the train tacks, just after crossing the second bridge look for a post on the right. (There's a memorial cross here, if it isn't covered with snow.) Hike up a somewhat sketchy approach, depending on snow conditions. The start to the gully is obvious. The upper gully is directly above the lower, with 150ft or so between the two.
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