Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 2 - Bear Canyon
> Old Man Stone Face &…
The Black Stain
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls
|
|
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Fern Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
|
|
Wasp Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 7580 ft (2297 m) |
| FA: | Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Desicon on Jan 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This route was initially led as a solo back in 1990, subsequently bolted 10/4/93 and re-done by Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver.
To find this route, start counting #1 from the first line with chains at the top, Tom's Cruise, go east to the third route (fifth named route) and this is The Black Stain. The route starts with a pull up into a "port-hole" gouge in the rock, then follow the black mineral stain up to the top where two roof/bulges are encountered. Discontinuous cracks lead up and right to the finish. Crux moves are at bulges.
LOl, I see that this single pitch has mistakenly been assigned a 7000 foot + length, don't believe it, 75 tops!
To find this route, start counting #1 from the first line with chains at the top, Tom's Cruise, go east to the third route (fifth named route) and this is The Black Stain. The route starts with a pull up into a "port-hole" gouge in the rock, then follow the black mineral stain up to the top where two roof/bulges are encountered. Discontinuous cracks lead up and right to the finish. Crux moves are at bulges.
LOl, I see that this single pitch has mistakenly been assigned a 7000 foot + length, don't believe it, 75 tops!
Protection
I used small to medium wired stoppers, and two Lowe tricams (.5 pink, and 1.0), and eight quick draw sets. There are three bolts on this climb as I recall it, maybe only two? I have not been out there for a while. Chains at the top can be used to rappel back down to the cliff foot, and they also serve for top-roping the climbs to either side of The Black Stain
The last time I led this route, 1998 (?) I thought it was more like a solid 5.9 than a 5.9+?
The last time I led this route, 1998 (?) I thought it was more like a solid 5.9 than a 5.9+?
1 Comment