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Hang on to your ego
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 14
votes
Routes in North Clear Creek Sub Area
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Arachnophobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Baby Powder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beacon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Buster Brown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crosspickin' T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dude with a Tude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang on to your ego T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Horizontal Skins, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let Go My Eggo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Miss Thang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Real McCoy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Robber's Roost S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Serpent, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skins Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Southern Hydraulics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sting of the Scorpion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swiss Family Robinson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Truman Show Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Truman Show Project, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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White House Project, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Rob Robinson |
| Page Views: | 3,544 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | chummer on Jan 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Arguably one of the best 5.12 climbs at the Obed. Perfect rock. Sustained climbing. Great Pro. Crux at the very end. In an area of sport routes this climb is a fantastic testpiece for those looking for a little bit more excitement and challenge. Robinson scored a gem from the locals and fortunately inspired a few to put up a few trad routes of their own.
Location
The first truly impressive wall you encounter as you walk the cliff line. Set away from the trail a bit locate the obvious right slanting crack on the orange overhanging wall. Lower from bolts
Protection
If going for the onsight don't bother reading. If you want some gear beta here it is. The crack in the begining takes large to medium wires. 2-3 should do fine. Next up is some medium size TCU's. At the first real overhang place Purple camalot. Crank the hard move. Traverse right. Place Green camalot. Clip bolt. Crank crux. Get stood up and place blue metolius. I won't say where... Run it to the chains.
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