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Cure For The Common Crimp
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 74
votes
Routes in A. Cactus Cliff Far Left (left of Muscle Beach)
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Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hair Trigger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bran-Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pick a Peck of Perfect Pulling Pockets S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pad S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Super Suka S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beach Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Rick Thompson, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 6,702 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | B Haus on Jan 13, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
About 40 feet right of Da Fly on the next buttress with an overhanging bulge at mid height, this route starts on red rock with an obvious, chalked jug at the first bolt. It follows a medium-sized, left-facing dihedral to a hands off ledge (5.11) then fires up well protected blocky stone to the overhang. The crux (V6 or 7) involves pinches, two crimps and a sloper, all a wonderful break from the technical tweakiness that usually defines Shelf Road. Pull the crux and enjoy beautiful 5.10 climbing to the chains (even the resemblence of a tufa at the top!) all in all fun movement with a hard hitting crux and no hands rests in between.
Location
This is 40 feet right of Da Fly (5.13a) on the next buttress with a small, overhanging roof at mid-height.
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