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Psycho Driller
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall
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Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Greater Eighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Humble's Tumble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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over hanging offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Provo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Something Sporting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Roofs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 1,345 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan K. on Jan 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Located just left of Sabbatical/Humble Tumble, and begins behind the same large boulder. Start climb by climbing onto a short rock point below a flat roof. Clip the bolt located just above the lip of the roof. Using a locking carabiner here may be better than a draw, since it could keep you off the rock point if you fall on the next moves. Now make a very balancy mantle. The next part of the climb sports the so called double hands dyno on a slab. Although this may be true if your shorter, by using delicate foot work the dyno can be missed. Now continue for some distance with no bolts. The climbing is very easy here (5.6/5.7), but a sling may be useful for slinging a few chicken heads. Finally finish with a short steep finish past a few more bolts to the anchor.
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