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> Monkey World
The Wave
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 67
votes
Routes in Monkey World
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Beauty and the Beast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Catastrofarian S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Curious George S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Bars S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shoulda Coulda Woulda S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wave, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 320 ft (97 m) |
| FA: | Catherine Stedham & Tom Cecil 12/26/04 |
| Page Views: | 5,528 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Jan 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
The Wave is the leftmost route on the Monkey World Wall. This is one of the easier multi-pitch routes on the phra-nang peninsula, also the rappelling is straightforward and doesn't require any back clipping.
Pitch 1 5.10a, Shared with "Beauty and the Beast". Negotiate the steep start on huge holds to easier low angle ground ahead. Belay in a nice cave. There are now two anchors side by side. Take the left one, as the right one is for "Beauty..."
Pitch 2 5.10b, Follow the left line of bolts from the belay.
Pitch 3 5.10b, Continue up on better quality and steepening rock.
Pitch 4.5.10c, From the belay traverse left for a short ways then continue up. There is an intermediate belay below the final steep finish. It is easiest to lower back to this comfy belay to belay the second up, then lower them down. This negates the need for any difficult rappelling, and the top belay would be very uncomfortable.
Pitch 1 5.10a, Shared with "Beauty and the Beast". Negotiate the steep start on huge holds to easier low angle ground ahead. Belay in a nice cave. There are now two anchors side by side. Take the left one, as the right one is for "Beauty..."
Pitch 2 5.10b, Follow the left line of bolts from the belay.
Pitch 3 5.10b, Continue up on better quality and steepening rock.
Pitch 4.5.10c, From the belay traverse left for a short ways then continue up. There is an intermediate belay below the final steep finish. It is easiest to lower back to this comfy belay to belay the second up, then lower them down. This negates the need for any difficult rappelling, and the top belay would be very uncomfortable.
Location
This route is located on an obvious prow of limestone that starts just a few feet from the path (I think it's a road now). Look for a fixed line running down the hill underneath the power lines. Scramble up a few feet and you're at the mouth of the "bouldering cave." The route starts with a few steep moves right above the cave.
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