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Xenolith Dance

5.10c, Sport, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 67 votes
FA: Jeff Thomson et al 2000
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads > Bulletheads South
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Description

Face climbing in two pitches, the first with 9 bolts on delicate moves, and the second through 7 bolts to the top of the face. A very nice climb, it makes a nice continuation off of slot machine as it is just a short walk from the top of that climb. The start is the 3rd bolt line from the right. It shares a start with Shannon's Dancing (11A)

Location

Above Bullethead Ledge, there is a climber's trail that meanders up from the ledge, past the top of Coogee Crack. Better to climb Slot Machine and walk left to the base of the climb.

Protection

Quickdraws; 16 if you link the route together into one pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Xenolith Dance
[Hide Photo] Xenolith Dance
Looking up at Xenolith Dance from the base. XD follows the faint white streak up and then left.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Xenolith Dance from the base. XD follows the faint white streak up and then left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Sustained and thought provoking, demands good technique and a cool head. Aug 4, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Very sustained and thought provoking for the grade. Jul 31, 2009
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
[Hide Comment] I just did the first pitch to chain anchors, fantastic climbing. Jun 13, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] A bit of a runout after the last bolt, but on easy ground. If you're queasy you could punch in some gear in the end of Manana - maybe a .4 Camalot? That's just eyeballing though. Jul 23, 2015
Fletch PDX
Portland, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Very closely bolted. Not many dishes or edges. Basically just textured patches for foot and hand smears Jul 9, 2024