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The Pillar of Pain

WI5, Ice, Alpine, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 23 votes
FA: Todd Cozzens, Mark Brown, 1989/90
Wyoming > Cody > S Fork Shoshone… > 2. N Facing/S Side > 4. Majo Ranch/N Facing

Description

Aptly named, after all the work it takes to get here, it'd better be in climbable condition! Climb to the top of this massive pillar, then bump right to belay your second from sling anchor.

To descend, rap the pillar, then continue down the drainage rapping High on Boulder. You may retrieve any gear left at the confluence of High on Boulder and Moonrise on your way back to the vehicle.

Location

High in the drainage above High on Boulder... we did Moonrise, then hiked up the steppy drainage to gain a rubble-strewn slope which would provide access to the next drainage left. You will hike past one potential route which may sometimes materialize as an 80' free-standing pillar, IDK. Continue east another 100yds or so.

Protection

Screws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Three Amigos, on one of the last short steps above Moonrise, before traversing East into the Pillar Of Pain drainage (located above High on Boulder)
[Hide Photo] The Three Amigos, on one of the last short steps above Moonrise, before traversing East into the Pillar Of Pain drainage (located above High on Boulder)
Nearly home free, with a belay from K.Hirst. One can see the large evergreen to the right of the climb which IIRC, I belayed/rapped from. Be sure to place a screw for the second before traversing right...
[Hide Photo] Nearly home free, with a belay from K.Hirst. One can see the large evergreen to the right of the climb which IIRC, I belayed/rapped from. Be sure to place a screw for the second before traversing r…
Evan Watts photo of this incredible pillar. It feels a little more committing compared to the average WI5 - since you are many rappels away from the bottom of the gully. We also had overnight temps of -10 coming up - gave everything a serious flavor!
[Hide Photo] Evan Watts photo of this incredible pillar. It feels a little more committing compared to the average WI5 - since you are many rappels away from the bottom of the gully. We also had overnight temps…
The Pillar of Pain
[Hide Photo] The Pillar of Pain
The pillar in great shape 1/25/21
[Hide Photo] The pillar in great shape 1/25/21
A photostitched view of the unformed pillar on the way to Pillar Of Pain, featuring clipinmt's standing on the incipient cone for scale.
[Hide Photo] A photostitched view of the unformed pillar on the way to Pillar Of Pain, featuring clipinmt's standing on the incipient cone for scale.
Ace, K. Hirst and myself in the drainage above Moonrise, seeking to gain enough elevation to traverse East into the Pillar Of Pain
[Hide Photo] Ace, K. Hirst and myself in the drainage above Moonrise, seeking to gain enough elevation to traverse East into the Pillar Of Pain

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steven Atkin
[Hide Comment] The beauty of this route is its varying conditions (like all ice) but this one is especially to return over and over again. Expect grade 5 heebee jeebies in the hands for about 15 minutes while setting up your station. Dec 20, 2009
Noah McKelvin
Nomad
  WI5
[Hide Comment] This gully got avalanched here about 2 weeks ago. We got done climbing it and a rock the size of a microwave flew off the top. Ten seconds later a big wet slide took out the approach step of ice. (as the gullies form sort of a Y once above the approach step of ice, this slide came from the left gully, about 100 feet left of Pillar of Pain) Anyways, just a warning. If we would've been an hour later or earlier, it could of ended badly. Watch out for warm days. There is avy hazard in Cody. Besides that, amazing climb! Mar 11, 2013
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  WI5
[Hide Comment] It should be noted there is a 20-25M pitch of WI4 with a short ramp of WI2 thereafter (separate from High On Boulder/Moonrise) to reach the base of the pillar. The pillar itself is beyond classic, and very photogenic! Feb 25, 2023