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Sheer Lunacy

5.11c PG13, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

This route climbs the right side of the wall,traverses left and then goes over the small roof. Step left to anchors. Across the canyon from the Virgin.

Location

It is across from the Virgin.

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

K. McLaughlin on the F.A.
[Hide Photo] K. McLaughlin on the F.A.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Cavallaro
Lone Tree, CO
[Hide Comment] If I remember right, this climb was great but needed the anchors relocated closer to the edge. Dec 19, 2007
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
[Hide Comment] With the anchors (shared) so far to the left it's best to belay the second from the top, otherwise cleaning the route is a PITA. Sep 23, 2009
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, this route needs bolt hangers that do not flex when you clip them and a separate anchor. It's impossible to clean, and the second is looking at a really crappy swing/fall on cleaning. In addition, don't blow the 3rd clip on lead or you will get smashed into the dihedral. There seems to be a permanent leaver biner on this third bolt. May 11, 2014
john strand
southern colo
[Hide Comment] Come on out for the rebolting event on May 24th and you can fix it. May 12, 2014
Andy Ban
CO
[Hide Comment] Only 4 bolts to no anchors. Was not happy to find out that after pulling the thin roof. Fun moves though. Jun 19, 2016