PRINT: Rock Climb Short Shagg, -Shagg Crag

Short Shagg

5.9, Sport,

Avg: 2.1 from 103 votes
FA: unknown
Maine > -Shagg Crag

Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

2024 July 28 - Climbing closure routes now OPEN.

Another successful breeding season at the crag, thanks to all the climbers who chose to respect the nesting pair.

For more info. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

This mini-route climbs up a left-facing flake just to the right of The Great Escape. There's not much routefinding or beta indecision here: just climb the flake to a two bolt anchor. The extension above the anchors is a cool-looking 13d called Diesel.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Melissa Lipani laybacking up Short Shagg.

Devin taking in the scenery

Topping out Short Shagg

From another angle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR

A bolted short 5.9 crack, that looks to take good gear, I like it. Apr 24, 2008

rdlennon
New Hampshire

Well, the flake is only about 20 feet, and bolting is the ethic here. Not a big deal. That having been said, I don't think that this climb is worthwhile as a lead. It can be toproped from the Great Escape anchors. Sep 12, 2008

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

Ethic or not, why bolt a route with a crack protectable with gear?? Agreed, if the route is that short just TR it. Sep 14, 2016