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Nose Direct

5.9, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 1930
International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Eryri NP > Llanberis Pass > S Side > Dinas Mot

Description

Another classic, and although it's technically graded harder than Diagonal, it's much less intimdating.

1) 50ft 5.6. Bottom of the buttress. Up easy ground to the pedestal, then up and left to a ledge.

2) 90ft 5.7. Diagonally right, then up a leftwards ramp, then a groove to a belay in an alcove.

3) 50ft 5.8.
. A steep diagonal crack on the right, then up to the ledge.

4) 55ft 5.9. A hard start (crux) up the smooth corner, then up the flake and corner above.

Location

The line of the shallow groove to the left of Diagonal.

Protection

Nuts and cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Hand Traverse. (c) M.Chrysanthou.
[Hide Photo] The Hand Traverse. (c) M.Chrysanthou.