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The Village Idiot
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Narrows Proper
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Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Chiroptophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Choss Ninja S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deep Eddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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People's Rebolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sloppy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter |
| Page Views: | 1,845 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Dec 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Village Idiot is a great long route with outstanding rock and a diversity of moves. The route features two distinct and different cruxes.
Begin the route behind the tree, starting in some dirtier, broken rock to gain access to the sweet plaque of granite above where a couple of excellent splitters cut the face.
At the top of this face, traverse right to the first crux, a section of face climbing protected by four bolts. This first crux features powerful moves and steep climbing and takes you to the base of the prominent, left-facing dihedral.
Once in the dihedral, plug some gear and clip a fixed pin before coming to the second crux. There is now a lower anchor before the second crux for those who don't care to climb around the sharp arete.
The second crux features awkward, technical movement to ascend the dihedral before traversing right, out of the dihedral, around the arete and on to the face above. A couple of bolts in the dihedral protect the crux, while a couple of bolts on the face finish it off.
Enjoy, I think it's one of the best routes at the Narrows.
Begin the route behind the tree, starting in some dirtier, broken rock to gain access to the sweet plaque of granite above where a couple of excellent splitters cut the face.
At the top of this face, traverse right to the first crux, a section of face climbing protected by four bolts. This first crux features powerful moves and steep climbing and takes you to the base of the prominent, left-facing dihedral.
Once in the dihedral, plug some gear and clip a fixed pin before coming to the second crux. There is now a lower anchor before the second crux for those who don't care to climb around the sharp arete.
The second crux features awkward, technical movement to ascend the dihedral before traversing right, out of the dihedral, around the arete and on to the face above. A couple of bolts in the dihedral protect the crux, while a couple of bolts on the face finish it off.
Enjoy, I think it's one of the best routes at the Narrows.
Location
This is the second route on your left when you enter the Notch. It starts behind the tall tree in the Notch just left of the start of The Cement Garden.
Photos
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