Type: Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches
FA: Ed Wright & Dane Bass
Page Views: 12,832 total · 62/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on Dec 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

As with other Jungle Wall climbs, the first pitches are straight forward exercises in light crimping and nice hueco pulling. The 4th class scramble pitch in the Garden of Bleedin' breaks up the vertical. The crux is the part right before the overhang. Thin, crumbly rock makes getting to the larger holds on the overhang more difficult than it at first appears. Surmount the actually easier overhang and then you come to another very fun and unique pitch. There are deep dihedrals that completely block out your left/right view of the canyon. This pitch was my favorite. A few more pitches later and you are at the summit ridge. Rappel the route the same way you came up using the same belay stations.

Pitches:

1. 5.9
2. 5.10b
3. 5.6
4. 3rd class through Garden of Bleedin'
5. 5.9 flakes, start of long, black streak
6. 5.10 big roof
7. 5.10d
8. 5.10b dihedral pitch
9. 5.9 to ridgeline

Location Suggest change

Locate the large overhang to the right of Space Boyz and follow the blank path through the chopped out cactus down. For all I know, it's name may be painted at the first bolt now. Ha.

Protection Suggest change

14 quickdraws usually works for most routes in the Potrero. A single 70 meter rope is recommended for this route, a single 60m would be short on some of the rappels.

Photos

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