Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Nathan Brown, Steve Beeson 2000 |
Page Views: | 2,160 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 30, 2007 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is a steep and bouldery pitch that is almost a total clip-up, and is well worth the time. It only requires a couple pieces of gear at the top.
Either stem off of the tree for an A-0 start and clip the first bolt, or boulder in from the right on a rail (clip the first bolt and then lower down for the free start). Climb the ridiculously steep wall past 3 more bolts to easier terrain that is protected with gear. Belay on the perfectly flat ledge at slings. Note: The crux is actually at the first bolt, and the route gradually gets easier as you go, but probably at about the same rate as most climbers arms begin to fail.
Either rap off, or continue up to the Tilted World for some more steepness. 70'
Either stem off of the tree for an A-0 start and clip the first bolt, or boulder in from the right on a rail (clip the first bolt and then lower down for the free start). Climb the ridiculously steep wall past 3 more bolts to easier terrain that is protected with gear. Belay on the perfectly flat ledge at slings. Note: The crux is actually at the first bolt, and the route gradually gets easier as you go, but probably at about the same rate as most climbers arms begin to fail.
Either rap off, or continue up to the Tilted World for some more steepness. 70'
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