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Saul's Crack

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
FA: Joe Brown 1947
International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > Peak District > Roaches > Upper Tier

Description

A Joe Brown tour-de-force and a must-do while visiting.

Easily at first up to beneath and slightly right of the corner crack, now the fun begins; somehow gain the corner and jam/lieback up it to the overhang. Go through the overhang (crux) to easier climbing.

Location

Left of the big roof of The Sloth, a crack runs up a left facing corner and through a small overhang.

Protection

Nuts and cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting to grips with the corner crack.
[Hide Photo] Getting to grips with the corner crack.
Tony at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Tony at the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] 5.9 just doesn't describe this route - I have a lot of history with this one, a love/hate relationship I suppose. Got badly spanked on my first attempt, in those days it was rated "VS" . Nov 23, 2007
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
[Hide Comment] Maybe it's just that my jamming is a bit rusty, but I definitely found the bulge beneath the roof to be the crux. The roof itself was gymnastic, but pretty straightforward. Jul 8, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Often green and damp beneath the overhang. Oct 13, 2015
Brad Warne
Calgary, Alberta
 
[Hide Comment] Thought it was a great route! Oct 18, 2015