Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kim Miller, Jim Knight - February 1977
Page Views: 4,859 total · 23/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


12 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1- Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R).

P2- From the right end of the ledge sustained face climbing leads past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. You can protect these in several sections of the crack with sizes from micro cams up to 2" cams (offsets useful).  Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a belay at a clean in cut  ledge or traverse right at the top of the shallow cracks to a big pine tree. (5.11 R). Rap from the big pine tree (100') to the gully on the right. 150' - 180' pitch

The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab.  Because this route isn't climbed that much, expect some flakiness.

This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits,  and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and  sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care with a head injury after taking a long fall.

Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon & Ted Higgins.

The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot 2 years later.

Location Suggest change

5-10' left of Shock Trauma at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.

Protection Suggest change

Draws, micro cams to a 2" cam, offset cams helpful. Don't bother bringing any nuts.

Photos

loading