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Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1
Avg: 2.9 from 10
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Routes in Tiara Rado South
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Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Cameron Burns, Jonathan Butler and Jesse Harvey- August 1, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 3,616 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Pickren on Nov 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.
Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)
Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)
Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)
Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)
Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)
Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)
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