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Sweeper

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.3 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Illinois > Jackson Falls > A. N Canyon > J. Railroad Rock Clif…

Description

It is the sweeping crack (get it?) with the same start as Creeper. Start as Creeper, but cut right and ascend the sweeping slabby dihedral.

Location

just to the right of Creeper.

Protection

small to medium gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The old fixed nut at the top of Sweeper. It protects...a sketchy traverse? Hard moves above? You, lowering to the ground once you realize the foolishness of this contrived crack? <br> <br> I'd back that nut up.
[Hide Photo] The old fixed nut at the top of Sweeper. It protects...a sketchy traverse? Hard moves above? You, lowering to the ground once you realize the foolishness of this contrived crack? I'd back that…
Top half of Sweeper.
[Hide Photo] Top half of Sweeper.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know how this climb is supposed to end? In his guidebook Eric Ulner says to cut back left on a "shelf" after ascending the crack to the roof. I tried this via a BIG (definitely way harder than anything else so far) step across to a "shelf", protected by a fixed nut, and found the ledge to promptly end before I could get around to the tree I wanted to anchor from. I ended up bailing from the fixed nut after I couldn't find any 5.8 pg moves; I've only ever heard people do the same. Sep 18, 2017
Ian Tabor
Maryland
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the two bolted climbs to the right of this are? They both start on the slab and then the left finishes on mussy hooks after a huge dyno and climbing through the roof, while the right finishes at two huge quick links. I think they've been around since october. Apr 24, 2022