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The Fastest Gun
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.9 from 159
votes
Routes in Main Face
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Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crux Capacitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Junior Varsity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homecoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Karmic Kickback T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sea of seams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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P.T. Pillar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Easy Street T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Geoff Smith and Dick Bushey, 1/77 (p.1 & 2) Jim Dunn, 1978 (p.3 & 4) |
| Page Views: | 28,050 total · 132/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
As stated by Don Mellor in his comprehensive guidebook to the adirondacks: "Taken separately, each pitch of this route would be considered among Poke-O's best. Linked together they create an experience that seems too good to be in the East."
The Fastest Gun epitomizes all that climbing at Poke-O is about: In-your-face climbing from top to bottom with dizzying exposure, airy belay stances, and a short, but mandatory runout above small gear. This route is not only a classic Adirondack climb, but a route worthy of coast to coast notoriety.
Pitch 1:
Begin this route at a big right-facing flake with an off-width starting at about 15' off the ground. grunt your way up the layback flake, slam a #4 Camalot in the off-width and figure out how to get yourself to the top of the off-width below the first roof.
place a Camalot under the roof, undercling and jam your way around this strenuous section until some feet can be had off to your right. Take a quick rest, then finish up the jamming/layback section to the slung blocks. Step left and continue over to the left below the double crack system running vertically above you. (100')
Pitch 2:
Follow the seemingly endless twin cracks above you to a small roof. Pull this, then continue above the broken dike, climbing slightly to the left to a ledge. (140')
Pitch 3:
A bolt marks the third pitch. Climb off the ledge to a thin crack on your right. Pass the 1/4 inch bolt at a hard move, then place some small gear, and run it out (5.6ish, but heady) to the large left-facing corner capped by a roof. (160')
Pitch 4:
The roof move. A series of hard moves gets you to the base of the corner. Crank your way up and left over the roof past some loose flakes, and then climb up to the top of the cliff and anchor. (150')
Well done!
Photos
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