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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Glenn Cilley 5/95 |
| Page Views: | 2,137 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 7, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is a wild ride of a route up the steep orange roof on the right end of Main Cliff. This roof is very easy to locate from the center Main Cliff area and is intimidating before you even get up there... Then it looks even more so.
Very unfortunately there is some loose rock on the route (though there is one less loose block since Casey and I climbed it. It was the size of a toaster oven and it came close to hitting me and only came to rest down near the road). So be safe up there.
Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case and set up a belay at the top.
Pitch 2: Climb up the face and not so defined crack up above the anchor placing gear. The trad climbing is about 5.9 but not super well protected. About 1/2 way up you get your first bolt and enjoy some nice technical face climbing up to a rest ledge looking out the roof and saying "what!?" It looks hard for sure and it also looks like a few holds may have broken. Sequential climbing heads out the steep roof past a fragile hold to a hard mantel on to the top. I blew this mantel and took a big whip out in to space. The fall is clean but spooky. Clip the chains and lower back to the ledge.
Very unfortunately there is some loose rock on the route (though there is one less loose block since Casey and I climbed it. It was the size of a toaster oven and it came close to hitting me and only came to rest down near the road). So be safe up there.
Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case and set up a belay at the top.
Pitch 2: Climb up the face and not so defined crack up above the anchor placing gear. The trad climbing is about 5.9 but not super well protected. About 1/2 way up you get your first bolt and enjoy some nice technical face climbing up to a rest ledge looking out the roof and saying "what!?" It looks hard for sure and it also looks like a few holds may have broken. Sequential climbing heads out the steep roof past a fragile hold to a hard mantel on to the top. I blew this mantel and took a big whip out in to space. The fall is clean but spooky. Clip the chains and lower back to the ledge.
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