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Routes in Creekside
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Creekside Cruise T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curtain Call T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Liquid Therapy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Local Hero T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Los Pinos (The Pines) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Spirit on the Water T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Olsen, Brenda Leach, and Yvonne D'Andrea, 10/29/07 |
| Page Views: | 4,000 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Curtain Call is a 2-pitch mixed route that starts just left of Local Hero. The first pitch has some steep face climbing and moderate slabs; the second pitch climbs a direct line up the Showtime arete.
Most likely, this will be the last new route on Tonnere Tower for the 2007 season. I would like to thank my first-ascent partners for their help in establishing all the fine routes on this crag. Their photos can be found in the ?Curtain Call? album. Here is the Wikipedia definition of Curtain Call.
Start at a steep face about 15' left of Local Hero.
P1: Climb up to to a small roof, step left, and continue up to a lower-angle slab. Climb the slab past a bolt, and step right to a short steep wall. Clip a second bolt and crank up right to another slab. Climb the slab and move up right to a corner capped by a roof. Clip a third bolt, and traverse left under the roof (crux). Climb steep cracks to a ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8, 90'.
Nice climbing at the beginning and end of the pitch, but the easy slabs in the middle drop the rating to one star.
P2: Step left from the anchor onto an arete. Climb straight up the arete, merging with Showtime after 40'. Follow Showtime to the top of the pinnacle. Stay left as much as possible for the best climbing line. You can also finish up on Dutch Treat, which climbs cracks in the center of the pinnacle, instead of staying left on Showtime. 5.8+, 120'.
This is a great pitch; the best pure trad pitch on the crag. Three stars.
Descent: If you have a 60m rope, rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys (this anchor is about 20' above the first-pitch anchor on Curtain Call). Then rappel 100' down to the gully just above the start, and do an easy 20' downclimb.
If you have a 70m rope, rappel 115' down to the anchor atop the first pitch of Curtain Call, then rappel 110' down to the start.
Most likely, this will be the last new route on Tonnere Tower for the 2007 season. I would like to thank my first-ascent partners for their help in establishing all the fine routes on this crag. Their photos can be found in the ?Curtain Call? album. Here is the Wikipedia definition of Curtain Call.
Start at a steep face about 15' left of Local Hero.
P1: Climb up to to a small roof, step left, and continue up to a lower-angle slab. Climb the slab past a bolt, and step right to a short steep wall. Clip a second bolt and crank up right to another slab. Climb the slab and move up right to a corner capped by a roof. Clip a third bolt, and traverse left under the roof (crux). Climb steep cracks to a ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8, 90'.
Nice climbing at the beginning and end of the pitch, but the easy slabs in the middle drop the rating to one star.
P2: Step left from the anchor onto an arete. Climb straight up the arete, merging with Showtime after 40'. Follow Showtime to the top of the pinnacle. Stay left as much as possible for the best climbing line. You can also finish up on Dutch Treat, which climbs cracks in the center of the pinnacle, instead of staying left on Showtime. 5.8+, 120'.
This is a great pitch; the best pure trad pitch on the crag. Three stars.
Descent: If you have a 60m rope, rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys (this anchor is about 20' above the first-pitch anchor on Curtain Call). Then rappel 100' down to the gully just above the start, and do an easy 20' downclimb.
If you have a 70m rope, rappel 115' down to the anchor atop the first pitch of Curtain Call, then rappel 110' down to the start.
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