Visions Of Impalement
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 18 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey 1996 |
Page Views: | 3,439 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Rick Shull on Oct 22, 2007 |
Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
When approaching the Visions Wall, the most dramatic arete of this cliff juts out overhead, extending above the tree tops. The route is primarily a sport climb but has some crucial gear between the 4th and 5th bolts.
Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack. Take your time to place good gear as a fall from just below the next bolt could result in a deck fall without the gear. After placing your pieces and grabbing a rest in the "pod", launch up the arete and face just to the right. Around the 8th bolt, either stay on the arete for the full value 5.12 version or climb about 3 feet to the right for the 11d. At the last bolt, move back left as the arete ends at an 18" ledge with a three bolt anchor. This route really shines after the gear placements where you will encounter an unrelenting, overhanging wall with featured rock and mostly positive holds.
Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack. Take your time to place good gear as a fall from just below the next bolt could result in a deck fall without the gear. After placing your pieces and grabbing a rest in the "pod", launch up the arete and face just to the right. Around the 8th bolt, either stay on the arete for the full value 5.12 version or climb about 3 feet to the right for the 11d. At the last bolt, move back left as the arete ends at an 18" ledge with a three bolt anchor. This route really shines after the gear placements where you will encounter an unrelenting, overhanging wall with featured rock and mostly positive holds.
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