Happy Gilmore AZ

[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.11's in the creek. Lots of rests. Nov 24, 2008

slim   5.11d

[Hide Comment] awesome route for sure. heavy on the throttle the whole way. May 26, 2009

Wally Denver

[Hide Comment] Beagle says this: Lots of rests. Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way. Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts? Wally Oct 13, 2010

slim   5.11d

[Hide Comment] probably because beagle is tough, and i'm knot. there are a couple rests, but it felt like a pretty intense route to me, particularly at this slightly rightward traverse that is kind of spooky for some reason. good route, if you haven't done it yet you should! (the description above says the crux is just before the anchor, but i thought the laybacking closer to the bottom was the hardest part). Oct 13, 2010

Silvia Luebben Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] is the section with the 6 1.5 friends more like the purple camelots or green camelots size? Oct 13, 2010

slim   5.11d

[Hide Comment] it seems i remember the lower layback section to be a mix of purple and green, and then the top offset splitter to be a couple green and then some #2 friend and maybe getting into a red camalot. hopefully if i am off track somebody can set me straight. the crack switch wasn't really a piece of cake either, kind of awkward. Oct 13, 2010

claytown Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] LOVED this route!! Pretty sure the FA was Steve Hong and Bob Rotert well before I started climbing... maybe mid-80s. 11+ or 12- probably dependent on hand size, like many creek routes. Definitley has stems and rest steps. Killer climbing the whole way. After the initial dihedral you get some bouldery moves to the next crack which, if I remember was splitter #1 camalot. Excellent, long pitch. Nov 8, 2010

Gaar Springdale / Zion UT / Moab

[Hide Comment] My guidebooks says you'll look pretty cool if you flash this. I onsighted it and all I got was one hell of a left arm pump!! Hang out at the rests along time, and it makes it easy Nov 23, 2010

Max Tepfer Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] My experience of the upper crux (gear wise) was more in line with slim. 0.75 was the size I wish I'd had more of and I don't really remember wishing for a #2 camalot at all up high. As for movement beta, I'd say lots of good rests to use. (total no hands-pre crux among others) Jan 2, 2011

GabeO Boston, MA

[Hide Comment] I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier. Oct 30, 2012

ben jammin Moab, UT   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Great route. One 70m gets you down. Mar 11, 2014

Where's Walden   5.11d

[Hide Comment] NESTING WARNING: As of 4/24/16 there is a nest with 5 eggs (green with browm speckles) at the first wide pod about 4 meters off the ground. Please do not climb the route. Apr 26, 2016

michalm

[Hide Comment] No nests on the route. The climbing is incredible. Crux is 0.75 to #2 friends to tight #1s offset splitter. It pinches a bit at the lip, climbing slightly tighter than the gear that goes in. Oct 16, 2018

Austin Donisan San Mateo, CA

[Hide Comment] There's nowhere you would want to place a #2 on this. Maybe there's a pod somewhere, but you'll want it for your hands. 2x0.4, 4x0.5, 8x0.75, 4x1; to sew it up even more bring more 0.75s. Felt pretty different to Quarter of a Man since that can be entirely thin-handsed (for me), while the first 2/3 of this is all fingerstacks (but with rests). Nov 23, 2021

Tanner James Sierras

[Hide Comment] This is likely my single favorite route I’ve climbed in the creek. Outstanding movement and variety with the upper sections being all time fun and cool. Agreed it felt marginally easier than quarter man but only very slightly and likely style dependent Feb 23, 2025