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Castles Burning
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Bob Gaines, January 1988 |
Page Views: | 1,587 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route goes up the buttress to the right of the second pitch of "Dum Roodle", wandering past five bolts and four bulging overhangs.
Climb a right curving crack, under the first bulge, pass this on it's right side and continue to a bolt, climb up to the second bulge. Move left, then over the overhang and climb past two more bolts to the right side of the third bulge. Traverse left along a dike, beneath the overhang, then move over it and up under the final overhang, passing two more bolts (5.12a). Move right until possible to head up to the top.
This is the best I can describe the route from what I have gathered from guide books and looking at it. This route is way above my ability and I don't think that I know anyone who has done it.
Climb a right curving crack, under the first bulge, pass this on it's right side and continue to a bolt, climb up to the second bulge. Move left, then over the overhang and climb past two more bolts to the right side of the third bulge. Traverse left along a dike, beneath the overhang, then move over it and up under the final overhang, passing two more bolts (5.12a). Move right until possible to head up to the top.
This is the best I can describe the route from what I have gathered from guide books and looking at it. This route is way above my ability and I don't think that I know anyone who has done it.
3 Comments