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My Place In the Universe
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Solaris
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Contact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cosmic Explorer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crumbs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Get Me Started S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fawkes and the Pilot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harvest Moon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Just End It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kundalini Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leftovers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Luminosity, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mephistophiles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mission To Mars T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Place In the Universe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Party On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Star Fox (AKA Faux Start) T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Start Me Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stellar Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twilight Zone S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, 10/2/07 |
| Page Views: | 1,272 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
A compelling line that called me the first time I saw it. I knew I'd return to climb it someday. Although it initially was very loose, I cleaned the starting 'cave' from the ground with the help of Mark Ruocco. I then climbed it, cleaning the rest on the way up. It turns out to be great set of hard moves for the first 20 feet, followed by easier climbing through the vertical section, then some still dirty rock up at the very top.
The grade is uncertain, as it was cleaned ground-up and may have felt harder on the FA than it truly will turn out to be once clean, but this is certainly secure somewhere in the 5.11 grade. This and Cosmic Explorer are by far the hardest routes at Solaris, in completely different ways.
Climb up on the right wall using slopers for feet and holds on both sides for hands and stems. Gear can be placed on the left side. Convert to underclings, knee-scums, and body tension to pull the big roof (crux, 5.11?) then pull a few more semi-awkward moves to establish feet above the roof (5.10a?) and then climb the more mellow crack to the top. The last few feet are pretty lichenous, but will clean up over time. Presently the critical holds are cleaned.
This climb was cleaned ground-up and has yet to be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed- this contributes to some ambiguity about the grade, and the final bit of climbing being still licheny (will be cleaned on rap later.)
Potential leaders who are used to sterile conditions might find themselves in a pickle if they get to this before I finish cleaning it...
You can TR after accessing the top from Mission To Mars, or if you set a directional using trad gear and TR from the Mission To Mars anchors. But watch out down low, so you don't hit talus from the opening moves back in the cave with rope-stretch.
The grade is uncertain, as it was cleaned ground-up and may have felt harder on the FA than it truly will turn out to be once clean, but this is certainly secure somewhere in the 5.11 grade. This and Cosmic Explorer are by far the hardest routes at Solaris, in completely different ways.
Climb up on the right wall using slopers for feet and holds on both sides for hands and stems. Gear can be placed on the left side. Convert to underclings, knee-scums, and body tension to pull the big roof (crux, 5.11?) then pull a few more semi-awkward moves to establish feet above the roof (5.10a?) and then climb the more mellow crack to the top. The last few feet are pretty lichenous, but will clean up over time. Presently the critical holds are cleaned.
This climb was cleaned ground-up and has yet to be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed- this contributes to some ambiguity about the grade, and the final bit of climbing being still licheny (will be cleaned on rap later.)
Potential leaders who are used to sterile conditions might find themselves in a pickle if they get to this before I finish cleaning it...
You can TR after accessing the top from Mission To Mars, or if you set a directional using trad gear and TR from the Mission To Mars anchors. But watch out down low, so you don't hit talus from the opening moves back in the cave with rope-stretch.
Location
Just to the left of Mission to Mars, there is a huge overhanging slot that pulls up through a roof. Above that, a crack. Below the slot there is a pile of talus that fell from within... this slot, roof and crack are 'My Place In the Universe.'
Protection
Tricky and pumpy in places, but all there. A set of stoppers + cams to 2.5" Belay on the left, where the gear is and do so attentively. An early fall could land the leader in talus, though this is not the crux (maybe 5.10).
You can TR after accessing the top ledge by climbing Mission To Mars, or if you set a directional stopper, you can TR from the Mission To Mars anchors.
You can TR after accessing the top ledge by climbing Mission To Mars, or if you set a directional stopper, you can TR from the Mission To Mars anchors.
Photos
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