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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
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> 7) Thunder Buttress
Momma's Squeeze Box
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 27
votes
Routes in 7) Thunder Buttress
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Gun Control T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gun Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Super Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast in Me, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Transcendence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Screamer Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mushrooms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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L.S.D. T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right Son of Thunder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Momma's Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Concertina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Windbag T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stabat Mater S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Backlash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Loud Noise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Let's Make A Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beauty Shop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981 |
| Page Views: | 3,404 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).
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