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Lunatic To Love
5.9+,
Sport,
Avg: 2.3 from 40
votes
FA: Ryan Lawson
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (l) Christian B…
> Christian Brothers -…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A bolt protected bouldery start (the crux) leads to a short hand crack that leads to easier climbing along a row of bolts to the anchors.
Location
Climb to and past the start to Catherine Finds An Edge through a narrow notch located at the western-most edge of The Priest. Scramble down into a small alcove to the starts for Little Indian Princess, Am I Evil? and Lunatic to Love. Lunatic To Love is the left most route.
Protection
Quickdraws. Two bolt anchor.
![Thin moves upto and through the first 2 bolts. Morning shade-- good place to escape the heat in the summer.]()
[Hide Photo] Thin moves upto and through the first 2 bolts. Morning shade-- good place to escape the heat in the summer.
![Kate ascends Lunatic To Love via top rope. Note the rope hanging to her right from the Little Indian Princess / Am I Evil? anchors.]()
[Hide Photo] Kate ascends Lunatic To Love via top rope. Note the rope hanging to her right from the Little Indian Princess / Am I Evil? anchors.
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Canmore, AB