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Routes in Northwest Face
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Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Cry Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Northwest Bush (Northwest Books Direct) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954 |
| Page Views: | 20,473 total · 98/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on Sep 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).
Photos
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