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> Big Cottonwood…
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> Storm Mtn Island
Coco Moco
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Storm Mountain Island
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Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1 |
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Amphitheater Overhang Right A1 |
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Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crag Turkey Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Six Addict T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Six Appeal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steve the Pirate aka Wind Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,723 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
From the ledge at the bottom of La Creme De Shorts, step left around the arete and climb over a bulge formed by a loose-looking (but apparently solid) block. If the block seems too risky, you can move left and turn the bulge (protection in horizontal cracks) then step back right and join the original line. Follow weaknesses up and left to a clean reddish face. (The reddish face is above the ledge system that connects the top of the initial La Creme corner with the belay for Storm Mountain Stupor). Climb the wide but easy crack on the reddish face, move left, then take a line just right of a tree over several bulges to the large ledge on which Layback Crack ends. Belay from cams in horizontal cracks.
When we did this, my 9- and 11-year-old partners rated it 5.5, but it likely would be a handful for a novice leader, hence the rating. A post indicates that this had been climbed before, which I don't doubt given the long history and popularity of the "Island," but since we appear to be the first to report it, I'm calling it by the name suggested by my partners.
NB (July 22, 2017): Just noticed that Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide calls this line "Ramblin' Man" and gives the date of the FA as 1995 (but doesn't say by who).
When we did this, my 9- and 11-year-old partners rated it 5.5, but it likely would be a handful for a novice leader, hence the rating. A post indicates that this had been climbed before, which I don't doubt given the long history and popularity of the "Island," but since we appear to be the first to report it, I'm calling it by the name suggested by my partners.
NB (July 22, 2017): Just noticed that Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide calls this line "Ramblin' Man" and gives the date of the FA as 1995 (but doesn't say by who).
Location
Left of the La Creme De Shorts/Layback Crack corners (and their variations) and right of Storm Mountain Stupor.
Protection
Standard trad rack. Protection is tricky but adequate so long as the rack includes cams and long runners. No heartburn here if someone wants to add fixed gear. To descend, either walk off by scrambling left then up and over the top, or rappel from the bolts atop Layback Crack, which are 20 or so feet from the end of the route to the up and to the right. For the rappel, a 70 meter rope will get you down in one go; otherwise, you're looking at two rappels.
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