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Los Pinos (The Pines)
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.5 from 33
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Routes in Creekside
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Creekside Cruise T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curtain Call T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Liquid Therapy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Local Hero T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Los Pinos (The Pines) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Spirit on the Water T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen, Ken Cangi, and Kelly Baldwin, 9/1/07 |
| Page Views: | 4,103 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Los Pinos (The Pines) is the longest route at Tonnere Tower, and perhaps the longest route in Boulder Canyon, climbing more than 450' from the creek to the summit in four or five pitches. The first two pitches have bolt anchors, and can be climbed and rappelled back to the start if you don't want to go all the way to the top.
The second pitch is a neat finger crack with tiny pine trees in it; it's the best pitch on the route. The pitches above are adventure climbing; little cleaning has been done. Expect lichen and vegetation, and watch out for loose rock.
For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.
Start at the alcove by the creek where Spirit on the Water begins. This is about 50' upstream from where the rock wall first meets the creek.
P1: Climb up the right side of the alcove heading for a little roof with cracks on either side. Continue straight up the cracks and face, and merge with Spirit on the Water at its last bolt. Continue up and right to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Spirit on the Water. 5.8, 85'.
P2: Go to the right side of the slab, and climb a thin crack that angles up and right, past several tiny pine trees. 3 bolts and some small cams (green and yellow Aliens) protect the crack. Continue up to a steep headwall. Clip another bolt and crank up to a ledge. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Spirit on the Water. This is the best pitch on the route. 5.9, 70'.
If you're just doing the first two pitches, lower from here to the anchor atop P1, then rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.
If you want to continue on to the summit:
P3: Climb moderate cracks to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.5, 65'. P2 and P3 can easily be combined.
P4: Angle up and left to a buttress with hand cracks. Climb the buttress and watch out for loose rock. Continue up moderate blocky ground to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.6, 110'.
P5: Move left up a buttress and climb a hand crack on its right side. Pass a pine tree on the right, and climb up onto blocks at a steep headwall. Climb handcracks in the headwall to the summit area. Belay from a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.6, 130'.
Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).
The second pitch is a neat finger crack with tiny pine trees in it; it's the best pitch on the route. The pitches above are adventure climbing; little cleaning has been done. Expect lichen and vegetation, and watch out for loose rock.
For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.
Start at the alcove by the creek where Spirit on the Water begins. This is about 50' upstream from where the rock wall first meets the creek.
P1: Climb up the right side of the alcove heading for a little roof with cracks on either side. Continue straight up the cracks and face, and merge with Spirit on the Water at its last bolt. Continue up and right to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Spirit on the Water. 5.8, 85'.
P2: Go to the right side of the slab, and climb a thin crack that angles up and right, past several tiny pine trees. 3 bolts and some small cams (green and yellow Aliens) protect the crack. Continue up to a steep headwall. Clip another bolt and crank up to a ledge. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Spirit on the Water. This is the best pitch on the route. 5.9, 70'.
If you're just doing the first two pitches, lower from here to the anchor atop P1, then rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.
If you want to continue on to the summit:
P3: Climb moderate cracks to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.5, 65'. P2 and P3 can easily be combined.
P4: Angle up and left to a buttress with hand cracks. Climb the buttress and watch out for loose rock. Continue up moderate blocky ground to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.6, 110'.
P5: Move left up a buttress and climb a hand crack on its right side. Pass a pine tree on the right, and climb up onto blocks at a steep headwall. Climb handcracks in the headwall to the summit area. Belay from a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.6, 130'.
Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).
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