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Routes in Solaris
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Contact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cosmic Explorer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crumbs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Get Me Started S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fawkes and the Pilot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harvest Moon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Just End It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kundalini Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leftovers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Luminosity, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mephistophiles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mission To Mars T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Place In the Universe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Party On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Star Fox (AKA Faux Start) T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Start Me Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stellar Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twilight Zone S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | T. Bubb, J Bargo, 9/19/07 |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
A short interesting section of climbing with more rock on either end of it. The route is basically uncleaned, as it was done ground up, on-sight on FA.
Stand up on a 1/2 buried flake to reach up under a small roof and place a 2-2.5" cam overhead. Jam and pull the first roof (5.8+) and continue up and left to a second roof, which is much larger. Protect under that roof on small cams (0.5, 0.75) on a long sling and pull up and left through the roof at its widest point. Very large holds make this easy enough. Place a 2-2.5" cam and pull over the roof with awkward feet and get established above (crux, 5.10- ???) and climb easier terrian with reasonable pro to a tree with a sling which resides directly above on the large, rocky ledge. The sling has no link on it as of now, and the ledge needs cleaned of loose rock when nobody is around.
Stand up on a 1/2 buried flake to reach up under a small roof and place a 2-2.5" cam overhead. Jam and pull the first roof (5.8+) and continue up and left to a second roof, which is much larger. Protect under that roof on small cams (0.5, 0.75) on a long sling and pull up and left through the roof at its widest point. Very large holds make this easy enough. Place a 2-2.5" cam and pull over the roof with awkward feet and get established above (crux, 5.10- ???) and climb easier terrian with reasonable pro to a tree with a sling which resides directly above on the large, rocky ledge. The sling has no link on it as of now, and the ledge needs cleaned of loose rock when nobody is around.
Location
Just left of the gully for Mephistophiles and Twilight Zone, there is a tall section of wall with a tree growing very close to it. Just left of the tree, near the arete at the entrance of the gully, there is a sharp flake sticking out of the ground next to the cliff, with the upward edge "painted" white. Above this lies a double set of roofs. The climb 'Party On' climbs up left of the first roof (yellow Camalot and handjam to pull it) and then up and left through the second roof (get horizontal and grab the huge holds) for the crux. From there, easier climbing takes you to a loose rocky ledge and the top, where a large tree with a sling marks the top.
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