Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | T Bubb, J Haas, J Wood, 9/07 |
Page Views: | 1,253 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 16, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is an interesting route that was better than it looked at first. I believe it has probably seen prior ascents, at least in part as an escape or alternate option to parts of 'Earache My Eye.'
Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall.
Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper, and then below.
This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.
Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall.
Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper, and then below.
This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.
Location
On the Nebel Horn Ridge, this route lies just downhill (south) of Ruby Slipper. There is a pair of shallow, left-facing corners there which extend from ground to summit with a large ledge at mid-height. This route is the leftmost of them, the right being "Earache My Eye."
Photos
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