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Routes in Arrowhead
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Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Artemis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Country Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diamond Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gimme Shelter T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Orange Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Ramp T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 R |
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V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, rope solo, September 2007 |
| Page Views: | 4,587 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Rossiter on Sep 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Begin from Ledge 1 about 10 feet right of the Inside East Buttress route.
1a. Climb the crack on the right and bridge up through a slot into the main crack (a short squeeze chimney at first). Jam fists and hands to a good stance behind the Bullet (10a, 80 feet).
1b. Climb a wide crack on the left as for Inside East Buttress, then work up and right to the top of a pinnacle (the Bullet) in the main crack (10a, 80 feet).
2. Continue in the same crack (mostly hands) into an awesome overhanging wide crack (crux, up to 12 inches). Bridge and jam to a fantastic stance on the right (can belay here). Jam a final hand crack (9) to Ledge 2 (10c, 100 feet in all). Move the belay to a slot beneath an obvious, left-facing dihedral.
3. Bridge up the slot then jam and stem the dihedral to Ledge 3 near the top of the East Buttress (10a, 100 feet).
Rappel the route from slings around boulders or escape north and west over the top of the East Buttress (Point 12387) and scramble to a junction with the South Ramp.
1a. Climb the crack on the right and bridge up through a slot into the main crack (a short squeeze chimney at first). Jam fists and hands to a good stance behind the Bullet (10a, 80 feet).
1b. Climb a wide crack on the left as for Inside East Buttress, then work up and right to the top of a pinnacle (the Bullet) in the main crack (10a, 80 feet).
2. Continue in the same crack (mostly hands) into an awesome overhanging wide crack (crux, up to 12 inches). Bridge and jam to a fantastic stance on the right (can belay here). Jam a final hand crack (9) to Ledge 2 (10c, 100 feet in all). Move the belay to a slot beneath an obvious, left-facing dihedral.
3. Bridge up the slot then jam and stem the dihedral to Ledge 3 near the top of the East Buttress (10a, 100 feet).
Rappel the route from slings around boulders or escape north and west over the top of the East Buttress (Point 12387) and scramble to a junction with the South Ramp.
Location
Hike and scramble directly up from Black Lake and gain the big alcove between Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress of Arrowhead. FMJ ascends the south face of the East Buttress about 10 feet right of Tommy Caldwell's recent climb (Inside East Buttress). It is also possible to follow Ledge 1 north all the way from the southeast shoulder of Arrowhead to the big alcove.
Protection
Standard alpine rack from 0.25 inch to 5 inches plus several slings for chockstones and chicken heads. Bring a double length sling to belay at the Bullet.
Rappel anchors are in place (slings with rings) at Ledge 2 and Ledge 3. These slings were likely eaten by marmots within a year, so plan on leaving new slings. The voracious buggers probably packed off with the rings too.
Rappel anchors are in place (slings with rings) at Ledge 2 and Ledge 3. These slings were likely eaten by marmots within a year, so plan on leaving new slings. The voracious buggers probably packed off with the rings too.
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