PRINT: Rock Climb Burgerdier General, San Rafael Swell

Burgerdier General

5.11c/d, Trad, 135 ft (41 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
FA: Dave Anderson
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon

Description

This is an excellent, varied route with some difficult finger crack jamming. It's often overlooked despite its proximity to classics, such as Taco Terror.

Start with awkward moves pulling into a flare with a finger crack in the back. Chimney/jam up the flare to its end and jam a thin finger crack through a small rough, with feet. Hand jam up small left-facing corner to a stance below the final fingers splitter. Bust up this finger crack with hard moves separated by a few marginal stances.

You can lead/rap this route with one 70 meter rope. It's really close though so watch the ends. The climb is probably 37 meters long, but with rope stretch, you're good.

Location

About 100 yards left of Rabid Muslim and Lite Not Solid. Look for a finger-crack flare that's about 15 feet right of a large, broken right facing corner. The anchors are hard to see way up on the face at the end of the splitter finger crack.

Protection

Take a ton of cams in the 1-1.5 inch size (e.g. .5 camalots, orange metolious, #1 and #1.5 friends). Take a few small TCUs and a few hand sized pieces, up to a #4 friend (for the middle section).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route overview. Good fingers way up there!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT

The unique thing about all of these route names are their tie in with the then "Foodfighter series" that was the latest kid rage. Dave Anderson who did the FA of most or all of these would buy another Foodfighter for his kids for the price of dragging them to the base of the cliff or have one for his arrival back home....so,
it is Burgerdier General or Private Pizza or Mean Weener, or Short Stack or BBQ Bomber, etc spelled that way for a reason. Sorry Josh, it is just not Brigadier General, though you have the correct spelling! Glad you liked the routes! Sep 30, 2007

Darren Knezek

Someone should change the name to the one James wrote about. Plus this route is 135' long. An 80 meter rope just barely reaches. The grade is harder than the original one in Eric's guidebook, since Dave had it extended 25' more feet after eric's guide came out. Oct 27, 2007

Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT

5.11c/d

Daren...just did this again last weekend, and you can definitely do it with a 70. And you're probably right about the grade. Probably deserves 5.11+. I wouldn't give it 12-, especially by Swell standards, but it's stiff for 5.11. Nov 19, 2007

aschmidt

I had to look up the Food Fighters to learn more about all of Dave's great route names in the Swell: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_…. I love these gems even more now.

An ample rack would include: 4 .4's, 5 .5's, 4 .75's, 2 ea #1 and #2 and 1 #3 Camalots. Nov 11, 2014

Michael Friedrichs
Salt Lake City, UT

A little history on this route. When Dave did the FA, he ran out of gear and put the anchor at the start of the finger crack. I think he was never really satisfied with that. He and I went to the Swell on a cold January day just weeks before we lost Dave. He asked me if I thought I could lead up to the ledge and place a new anchor. I went for it and it worked out well but when I looked down at Dave belaying while I was drilling I saw that he was in the shade. The shade in January is pretty darn cold but Dave was so happy to have the route extended to a natural belay that he never said a thing while I stood up there in the sun drilling. When I got down he was shivering so bad that I knew he was miserable. It was the last route I ever did with Dave and I'll always remember that day.

Dave loved new routes so much. He showed me two other unclimbed routes earlier that day. We did one of them. He told me that he liked finding them as much as climbing them. I still think of him often and I feel his spirit in the desert. Nov 21, 2024