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Bollocks
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 70 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Sara G, Greg M, Luke D, 9/9/03 |
Page Views: | 2,789 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 4, 2007 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description (middle of wall, unga bunga, climb stuff. ugh)
Bollocks - that's what you might find yourself mumbling (shouting?) when lowering off the route straight into thick brush. But that's only half the fun!
Bollocks features fun climbing on big ole' jugs through a right trending vertical wall. Cool undercling moves abound, the climbing is sustained and straightforward, the bolts where you want them... What more do you want from a warm-up?
Cleaning this one can be a pain as thick patches of oak loom to the right. You'll swing in there if you lower and battle them if you rap. Use your brainz.
Bollocks features fun climbing on big ole' jugs through a right trending vertical wall. Cool undercling moves abound, the climbing is sustained and straightforward, the bolts where you want them... What more do you want from a warm-up?
Cleaning this one can be a pain as thick patches of oak loom to the right. You'll swing in there if you lower and battle them if you rap. Use your brainz.
Location
Bollocks is the easternmost route on Tower 1, it starts about 30' right of JimmyG's What the Hell. Look for a prow/sub-tower with a fat roof on the east side of Tower 1. You'll spot bolts heading out of a steep dirt gully capped with brush to the right of said sub-tower.
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