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Routes in Right Section
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Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Black Magic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bleak Streak T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Brimstone Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chiêu Hôi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Delphenia Lightning-Ass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Granite Jungle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Improbability Drive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peregrine, The TR V4-5 6B+ R |
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Reebok Pump T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Walk variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiner, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: D. Lovejoy, K.Karlstrom, M. Lund, J. Bjorklund (1971) FFA 2nd p.: R. Crawford, D. Anderson (1974) FFA entire rt.: C Reevly, A. Greene |
| Page Views: | 3,129 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Larry Coats on Sep 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This route climbs cracks that split the east-facing wall to the left of The Slabs feature on the right-center of the crag.
Pitch 1. Start in the downward-flaring chimney just left of the start to Granite Jungle. Struggle up this chimney, turning the capping chockstone (5.8), and thrash through vegetation up a ramp to the beautiful belay ledge next the The Unicorn horn. This climb would earn four stars except for this unpleasant pitch.
Pitch 2. It's obvious- step onto the top of the Unicorn, plug in a 4 Friend, and start jamming the fist-narrowing-to-hand overhanging hand crack above (5.10)- a physically demanding but beautiful pitch. This pitch ends on Froggy Bottom Ledge, where traverse is possible to several other exits, or rappels down Coke Bottle Chimney.
Pitch 3. The last pitch climbs the flaring corner above, and requires skills that are the polar opposite of the pitch below. Very marginal and tricky protection is required to suss out the delicate stemming and face moves to climb past the disjunction between the two cracks in the corner (5.11a R). Protection remains micro but improves above the crux, past a new Baillie-drilled bolt, and gains the sloping ramp above the corner. A belay is possible here to reduce rope drag, or step around the corner onto another thin face move and up to the top.
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