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Don't Panic, It's Organic
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 6
votes
Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard and Joyce Rosstier |
| Page Views: | 938 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Sergio P on Sep 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year
Details
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
In some ways this route is contrived and seems more of a variation for Parallel Journey. Still, since the guidebook lists it as two different routes, so will I.
Begin with either P1 of Parallel Journey or P1 of Perversion (recommended). If choosing Perversion, you will have to move the belay left to the base of the twin cracks. The right crack is P2 of Parallel Journey while the left one is Don't Panic, It's Organic.
Head up the stem box using the left crack for gear and finger locks. Eventually the crack becomes very thin and you can either jump right to the other crack (Parallel Journey) or continue up on small gear. The Rossiter's topo indicates that this is the crux, but I felt higher up was equally as challenging. Continue up the left crack going over a small bulge for a second crux. The climbing eases up after this point (5.5-5.8) as you head up one more bulge and stem box. Near the top there is a low angle, finger crack that juts left to a few jugs below a roof. Just beyond the roof are the rap anchors. If you make good use of slings, this can be done as one pitch w/ a 60m rope. If not, set up a belay just past the second bulge.
Begin with either P1 of Parallel Journey or P1 of Perversion (recommended). If choosing Perversion, you will have to move the belay left to the base of the twin cracks. The right crack is P2 of Parallel Journey while the left one is Don't Panic, It's Organic.
Head up the stem box using the left crack for gear and finger locks. Eventually the crack becomes very thin and you can either jump right to the other crack (Parallel Journey) or continue up on small gear. The Rossiter's topo indicates that this is the crux, but I felt higher up was equally as challenging. Continue up the left crack going over a small bulge for a second crux. The climbing eases up after this point (5.5-5.8) as you head up one more bulge and stem box. Near the top there is a low angle, finger crack that juts left to a few jugs below a roof. Just beyond the roof are the rap anchors. If you make good use of slings, this can be done as one pitch w/ a 60m rope. If not, set up a belay just past the second bulge.
Location
To find this route, head uphill along the base of the crag until you go past a large boulder that is leaning against the cliff. On the left side of the boulder is a left-facing dihedral that forms P1 of Parallel Journey. Begin here or scramble up the boulder, heading right, then climb P1 of Perversion.
Rap the route with one 60m rope
Rap the route with one 60m rope
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