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Routes in Chaos Boulder
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Chaos V8 7B |
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Circus Trick V6 7A |
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Circus Trick Right V6 7A |
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Death Flakes V1 5 R |
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Grim Reacher Direct V8 7B |
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Grim Reacher, The V5 6C |
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Hell Belly V10-11 8A |
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Hell Belly Stand V8 7B |
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Phantom Fighter V11 8A |
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Phantom Fighter (Stand) V9 7C |
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Press tight V3 6A |
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Rampage V3 6A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,918 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Perry on Aug 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Chaos starts standing with both hands on a badly sloping shelf. Alternatively, one can start even lower, again with hands on slopers, to add a move or two. From the shelf, move a bit to the left, using crimps to move upwards. The crux move comes when you get a small gaston and pull left to the lip of the scoop. It's a long move, and footholds are very small. Some guidebook photos can provide beta on this move. Once the lip is attained, mantle up and get over your feet. You're not done. It's very tempting to jump off, but you haven't done the problem if you do this. Make scary moves to the right to gain a seam that splits the slab, and keep up your momentum. Top out at about 25 feet. This is a superb testpiece!
I wonder who sent first...
Some jackass chipped holds on this problem years ago after the first ascent. From what I understand, unnatural holds can be avoided entirely using the right beta. Talk to a local if you want to do the real thing.
I wonder who sent first...
Some jackass chipped holds on this problem years ago after the first ascent. From what I understand, unnatural holds can be avoided entirely using the right beta. Talk to a local if you want to do the real thing.
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