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> Devil's Tongue
Devil's Tongue
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 21 August 2007 |
| Page Views: | 2,045 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Aug 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This fun climb has 2 x 25m pitches and has a very alpine feel. Not too serious, however! It ascends the prominent pillar of the North West Face. Some afternoon sun, but not as high as DC. Most loose rock has been cleaned, but approach as you would any climb up at Devil's Castle and wear helmets and climb cautiously.
Pitch #1: Starts just to the right (west) of a large low angle gully. Some dirty or broken up sections down low lead to a cruxy edgy section with very good rock. Climb past about 8 bolts to a 3 bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
Pitch #2: Steep, juggy, and pumpy moves up good rock past 4 bolts leads to lower angle terrain. Pass 4 more bolts to a ramp which leads to the two-bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
2 rappels down the route with one rope.
Pitch #1: Starts just to the right (west) of a large low angle gully. Some dirty or broken up sections down low lead to a cruxy edgy section with very good rock. Climb past about 8 bolts to a 3 bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
Pitch #2: Steep, juggy, and pumpy moves up good rock past 4 bolts leads to lower angle terrain. Pass 4 more bolts to a ramp which leads to the two-bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
2 rappels down the route with one rope.
Location
The Devil's Tongue probably has another name from the Alta Ski Patrol, but it was unknown by this climber. This is a prominent buttress low and east of the well known Devil's Castle Apron ski run.
The approach to the beginning of the crag from the Albion Basin Campground is shorter than for Devil's Castle and probably was no more than 15-20 minutes.
The approach to the beginning of the crag from the Albion Basin Campground is shorter than for Devil's Castle and probably was no more than 15-20 minutes.
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