Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Elaine Mathews, Stuart Phillips 1973. Free Richard Goldstone 1974.
Page Views: 7,201 total · 34/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Aug 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route


52 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Explore this route in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next

Description Suggest change

5 pitches of good climbing on clean rock, with the 2nd pitch being the crux. Scramble up the slabs to the obvious corner. Last ptich is mostly easy scrambling If you are camping on the slabs across from Haystack; there are great views of this climb. Descend via the goat track.

Location Suggest change

Pretty much in the center of the wall, right of the railroad tracks and left of the great chimney.

Protection Suggest change

standard mountain rack

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

The route annotated on how we climbing it.
The route annotated on how we climbing it.
 2
At the base of the awesome corner. There was a party ahead of us (John and Karl from Casper, WY). The crux of the route is just above the climber (Karl) in the photo; this a short power layback section getting over the roof. There is a good belay stance about 30 feet above the roof.
At the base of the awesome corner. There was a…
 1
going down the Grassy Goat Trail
going down the Grassy Goat Trail
 1
Route Overlay Central Corner
Route Overlay Central Corner
 1
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
There are a couple of ways to access the corner…
 1
Looking up Pitch 4, an arching right-facing corner. This grassy area is the best belay spot and the one alluded to in most route descriptions. We had belayed about 20 feet too early.
Looking up Pitch 4, an arching right-facing cor…
 1
Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun and sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing.
Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more f…
 1
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
There are a couple of ways to access the corner…
 1
The entrance to the chimney system on the final pitch (Pitch 5). It is possible to access the chimney by climbing this corner/face or by going up a ramp to the left.
The entrance to the chimney system on the final…
 1
After finishing this section you end up on a huge ledge and have one more long pitch to the top.
After finishing this section you end up on a hu…
 1
Looking down from the belay after finishing the roof pitch in the dihedral on Central Corner. Beautiful clean rock that protects well.
Looking down from the belay after finishing the…
 1
Start of the harder climbing - superb rock!
Start of the harder climbing - superb rock!
 1

6 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading