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Unknown Legend

5.11c, Sport, TR, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
FA: Mike Ierien, Jon Stahl and Mike Tupper 1994
Alaska > Fairbanks & Vic… > Grapefruit Rocks > W Grapefruit Rocks > Rubble Pile Crag

Description

Must do route for the area! Quality climbing down low, with a nice rest midway up, leads to a great vertical to slightly over hanging finish to the climb. The crux comes at you consistently through the last 3 bolts. Technical hand sequences up high with no room for footwork error makes this a superb route.

Location

Route shares 3 bolts with Postcards and then deviates right towards the obvious seam up high. Route can be TR'ed but the anchors are set down off the top of the climbs a bit. Creative anchor placement allows you to rappel or belay partner to anchors to set up TR.

Protection

6 bolts. Shares anchors with Postcards from Paradise 5.12 b/c to its' left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ethan Berkeland
Fairbanks, AK
 
[Hide Comment] Last 3 bolts are very quality steep climbing. In the running for the best route at Grapefruit IMO Jun 16, 2020
Cato C
Anchorage
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.11 sport climbs in Alaska. May 28, 2023
Nate Nathanaelson
Squarebanks, AK
 
[Hide Comment] Normally I get off a good route at Grapefruit and I think to myself, "that was a classic." But the caveat is always there that, well, "it's a classic for Grapefruit..."

Not so with this route. Were you to extract this route and drop it at any limestone crag in the country, I think it'd be at least three stars pretty well anywhere.

She's a humdinger top to bottom, but that three bolt section to the chains is delightful. Sep 11, 2023