5.7,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 204
votes
FA: John Waterman and Al Rubin, 1970
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.
Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.
Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive
Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared
chain anchors for
Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.
An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.
You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is
Cool Hand Duke (5.8). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.
Standard rack.
Dixfield, ME
I also did the Cool Hand Dukes variation for the second pitch and it was a fun jug haul with very good rock. I think the "questionable" rock mentioned by the earlier poster is in the low angled bit before the real business of this pitch. Easily avoided. Oct 27, 2009
Gardiner, NY
I'm not sure how to get off this climb. We did not use the rings/slings to the right; we actually down climbed to the tree and rapped to the Ants' line chains. Apr 9, 2011
Malvern, pa
NYS
Los Angeles, CA
For a beginner leader this helps avoid a weird situation where you're placing gear around the arete and potentially creating rope drag. Plus, if there are people on Ent's Line, you won't have to deal with them until you get to the anchor. Apr 18, 2017
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
High Falls NY