[Hide Comment] hey brian, i looked on RC.com cause they have kept pretty well up to date on the new routes and retros at rumney... that site has juicy fingers still protected by trad gear and a pin but they do list a new bolted route to the left, The Green Mile 5.9, which would make sense if you thought it wasnt quite 5.10a... what we need is photos and maps, they are oh so helpful... hope this helps... peace out... Aug 18, 2007

[Hide Comment] Sorry about the mix up of route names, I've gotten some more info on the route and I will try to get a decent picture the next time I am out. Aug 19, 2007

[Hide Comment] I think its 6 bolts to anchors rather than 5... May 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] It is possible to lead this with gear, but I would only recommend it if you are comfortable with a long fall potential. I was able to get a nice red c4 in the crack just after the large ledge. The gear is good but there isn't a lot of it. Aug 29, 2009

[Hide Comment] Does anyone have any info on the upper pitches above this route? Panama Hat or if there are any others? It looks like a cool section of rock. Sep 24, 2009

[Hide Comment] Yes, Panama Hat goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch.

The next route to the right is Chris Smith's route Flying Squirrel. It goes up at the big corner and out rt onto the arete, ending at the anchors of Panama Hat. I think he said it was an easy or mid 11. Again, approach from Anchovy, or perhaps The Green Mile.

The next one over right is Tim Kemple Sr's fun 11c that goes through a couple roofs, best approached from Scene of the Crime. Just continue up onto the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. Give your self some slack when belaying here so you can move around and see the climber.
Edit: Panama Hat ended up going into the new book as Mister Meaner, just to clear up any confusion Sep 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] Thanks Mark i will have to check those routes out and post what I can. I will def get on Panama Hat soon.

P.S. are these all sport? Sep 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] Yup..all bolt protected. Sep 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] thanks for the info mark... after that long entry whay not just post the climbs... Sep 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] Here's a video of Jakob making quick work of The Green Mile. Make sure to watch in 720p (Mountain Project strips it from the embedded video link)
youtube.com/watch?v=tsgguhY… Oct 11, 2010

[Hide Comment] The grade of 5.9 can be very fickle at Rumney... I have climbed ones that feel like 5.8, and I have climbed ones that feel like 5.10c. This one is certainly much closer to 5.9 than a lot of other Rumney 9's. When I was trying to break in to 9's at Rumney I found it very difficult. This climb (and Yoda as well) is an excellent first 5.9 lead. That said, I really enjoyed this climb, and I am going to certainly recommend it. The face moves are really cool and it's a different kind of slab climb than the Meadows, or even the slab sections of other climbs around this one. However, I'm not sure how someone shorter than me can reach the first bolt from the ground. I am just shy of 6 feet tall and I was about a foot short of reaching the bolt. May 29, 2012

[Hide Comment] worth doing if it is dry Aug 7, 2012

[Hide Comment] Fun route... challenging when wet. I found myself skipping the first bolt by climbing up right of it and clipping the second but if this climb is pushing it for you then maybe stick clip. Or maybe this bolt is easy to reach when it's dry. Sep 6, 2013

[Hide Comment] Careful! Left bolt at anchor is loose. Oct 6, 2013

[Hide Comment] I don't know which bolt can be reached from the ground (maybe that was the case in the past?), I didn't see it. You can clearly see the first bolt in one of the pictures, it is rather high and I would strongly recommend that it is stick clipped as I saw a very nasty fall that the guy from a different party took after we finished this route. They decided to go with a cam which ripped off when he fell and while everything seems to have ended well (at least no obvious damage), the fall was REALLY scary. He fell on his back onto the boulder below the route, then bounced and hit the ground. Jun 20, 2016

[Hide Comment] I think I did it on gear but that doesn't mean its a good idea ;) Aug 5, 2016

[Hide Comment] I suspect this route may be a little trickier if you're small, especially at the start. At 5'1'', I did a couple somewhat strenuous layback moves on tricky feet to get to the horizontal hold right of the first bolt. They were fun moves, but I was definitely glad to have stick-clipped the bolt! Aug 27, 2019

[Hide Comment] Super fun route! Also, I may be misremembering but when I did this yesterday I thought I had only counted 2 bolts on the face after the rest ledge unlike the 3 described here and in the beta photos. Aug 29, 2020

[Hide Comment] The second to last bolt is missing 8/30/2020, not sure if it got chopped? I actually enjoyed climbing through the top section without having to clip, so maybe it was on purpose? But that section is always medium scary because you're right off the ledge.

As always a great route! Aug 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] It sounds like it was a Rawl bolt that got loose and somebody took it out instead of tightening it. I probably won't be near Rumney for a while, so if anyone gets to it before me, I had planned on moving the anchors down and left since there is no longer a reason to have them up there and it would work better in another spot. They should be glue-ins too since non glue-ins loosen up in schist with lots of traffic. Aug 31, 2020

[Hide Comment] I think this route is still missing the bolt J Sword and Russell reported. I didn't notice the hole until I was lowering. Definitely made for a committing and heady climb. Oct 18, 2021

[Hide Comment] Heads up: the bolt is still missing on this. The climbing is pretty good, but be sure you're solid at the grade if you're going to try it before it is replaced. A fall in that section would likely cause you to hit the ledge. Oct 10, 2022

[Hide Comment] Excellent, underrated route! I do, however, think it would benefit if the anchor was at the edge of the second ledge. The last section is 5.2 at most and substantially increases rope drag upon lowering May 31, 2023