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Lichening The Serpent
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 9
votes
Routes in Observatory Wall (Upper Tier)
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Airbus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Diablo Standard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Goodnight Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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La Naris S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lichening The Serpent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Luna Lumina T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Solar Eclipse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Soul Sacrifice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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You're Scaring the Horses S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler |
| Page Views: | 1,790 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Beguin on Aug 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day.
Location
Same as for Diablo at The Early Wall then climb either Drunk Rednecks, Clip Art, or Dr. Diablo and go above the anchors to a sketchy 5th class scramble(a green Alien protects a move) up to the belay anchors for Lichening The Serpent that is located at a notch between the wall and a very large block.
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